Tuesday 23rd October (continued)

Two and a half hours to Sipi, first South to Iganga then East to Mbale and from there North to Sipi - a long way round but no direct roads (for a start, there is a large swamp in the way). The last 20km is a winding climb up the lower mountain slopes towards Mount Elgon. Arrived at Lacam Lodge in Sipi (part-owned by Robin and Priscilla Williamson's son Tim) late afternoon. The lodge consists of several 'bandas' (self contained huts), with shower, basin and loo (removable bucket and sawdust method!) but no electricity and overlooks the top of one of Sipi's famous waterfalls with an incredible view over the very flat Great Rift Valley far below and views of the Sudanese border a few hundred miles distant. Although we could not distinguish any features of the village, we were also looking over Irundu in the middle distance and could clearly see the distinctive arms at the bottom of Lake Kyoga. We enjoyed hot showers and ate a European-style dinner.